[DMV] Chef Voltaggio Comes To Town

Bryan Voltaggio’s empire has, at last, expanded to DC. Barely. His new restaurant, Range, is housed in the newly remodeledChevy Chase Pavilion in Friendship Heights, just across the Maryland border. We stopped by Monday night to check out the place, which opens to the public December 18.

Bryan tells us he “got the band back together.” Sommelier Keith Goldston and Chef de Cuisine Matt Hill—his “right and left hand at Range”—both connected with Bryan while at Charlie PalmerSteak. Given its location, it was important to Bryan that Range provide “something for everyone”—–on the menu and in the space. Range offers small plates designed for sharing, and the15k SF restaurant is divided into various kitchens dishing up different categories of food. Traditional table seating along the glass façade overlooks the rest of the pavilion, recently remodeled by the architectural team at Streetsense. All stations feature counter seating “to show off the chefs.” The adjustable private dining space can accommodate huge or small parties with the simple addition of a dividing wall.

Whole chickens and cabbage heads spin slowly in the rotisserie, which is lined with roasting potatoes and cauliflower to soak up the flavorful drippings—a technique employed on the streets of Paris. The sous vide circulator and wood-fire grill are in heavy rotation as cuts of steak and lamb are prepared to order. Next to the raw bar, the charcuterie station offers cheeses and house-cured meats, employing 200-kilo curing and fermenting cases that send Bryan a text if the pH is off inside. Ain’t technology grand? The wood-fired hearth churns out crispy, bubbling pizzas; at the next station, fresh pastas in flavors like pumpernickel and kimchee are prepared a la minute. Nose-to-tail is definitely a big part of Bryan’s philosophy, and he tells us to look out for presentations involving things like fish heads andtails.
The restaurant has an extensive bakery, pastry, and candy program headed up by John Miele, who oversees the pastry programs at Bryan’s other VOLT family restaurants in Frederick, MD. All breads are baked and desserts prepared from scratch on premises. A small candy counter stands at the far end of the restaurant, offering house-made confections like truffles, marshmallows, and biscotti for take-away. Next to the candy counter is a 1,200 SF retail shop carrying Bryan’s favorite kitchen gadgets—all of which are used in the Range kitchens. You know you’ve always wanted to brag to dinner guests that you use the same oyster knife as the stars.

Source- BISNOW

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